Albania: Breathtaking Views, Bizarre Vibes & A Perfect Day in Greece

Albania: Breathtaking Views, Bizarre Vibes & One Perfect Day in Greece

September 30 – October 10, 2025

When I told people I was going to Albania, the reaction was oddly specific: “It’s like Croatia before Instagram ruined it,”“Maldives-style beaches for half the price,” and “You’ll love it...beautiful and super cheap!”

Reader, I did not love it. And it wasn’t super cheap. It certainly was beautiful! 

I’ve travelled a lot... from the Highlands of Scotland to treks across Sri Lanka, and wild adventures in India — but this trip was one for the books. Not necessarily the scrapbook, but definitely the survival memoir.

✈️ Sept 30 – Takeoff Terror & Albanian ATMs

I survived Ryanair (barely). We landed early thanks to a tailwind,  or divine intervention and I had the joy of a middle seat between a cheerful legend and a man whose breath could legally qualify as chemical warfare.

Tirana airport greeted me with a $28 coffee-and-juice combo (inflation is real), and absolutely no one who could tell me where the bus stop was. When even Google gives up, you know you're in for an adventure.

Accommodation in Berat recommended a car hire, only $85/day, plus the thrill of navigating roads described by locals as “chaotic” and “basically Mario Kart with potholes.”

After ruling out bankruptcy via taxi, I found a Blue Taxi for $110. Cash only. So off I marched to the ATM, pulled out 10,000 lek ($250-ish), and watched it disappear faster than my patience.

🏘️ Oct 1 – Berat: Cute Town, Cold Vibes

Berat is picturesque, all cobblestones, mountain views, and UNESCO charm. But from the second I arrived, no one smiled. I mean no one. Not a smirk. Not a nod. Just the universal expression of “Don’t talk to me, I’ve worked 14 hours and still can’t afford cheese.”

My hosts were kind, in a “you’ll sit here and drink this coffee even though you asked for tea” kind of way. We tried to bond via Google Translate and vague nods. The sunset was gorgeous. The conversation? Less so.

😅 Oct 2 – Vlorë: Send Help

Vlorë will not be getting a postcard from me. One person smiled at me. One. The rest looked like they’d just heard I was the reason their rent went up.

I walked for hours trying to find food that wasn’t fried, cheesy, or made entirely of gluten and garlic (my actual nemeses). Eventually, I found a fancy-ish place with a card machine, jackpot! I explained my garlic allergy. The chef came out, looked me dead in the eye, and said: “We have nothing for you.” Not even a salad. Not even a glass of water. 10/10 hospitality.

By now I was weak from hunger and regret. My host (shoutout to her dentist appointment) gave me a lift to a supposed bus stop, which was actually a highway. Eventually, after almost being run over several times and genuinely considering hitchhiking, a bus appeared. Albania: 1, Me: 0.

🏞️ Oct 3 – Redemption Road to Sarandë

The drive to Sarandë? Pure magic. Winding mountain roads. Sparkling coastline. Sheep traffic jams. I finally exhaled, the Vlorë horror show was behind me.

🏖️ Oct 4 – Sarandë: We Have Entered the “Yes” Phase

Sarandë felt like a warm hug. People smiled. Waiters didn’t look like I’d insulted their ancestors by existing. I found food. Real, allergy-safe food. I nearly wept into my grilled vegetables.

🏝️ Oct 5 – Ksamil (aka “Instagram vs Reality”)

At 7am, Ksamil was dreamy. Empty beaches, turquoise water, soft light. Maldives vibes achieved. I ordered eggs and bacon to celebrate. It arrived cold, sad, and $29. Water was extra. Towels? BYO, apparently.

By 10:30am, the vibe shifted,  the beach filled with tourists, sunbeds hit €20, and I was barked at by a man who made the soup Nazi seem cuddly. My accommodation hosts were baffled when I asked where to eat... I got a shrug and a scowl.

That night, I was accused (via WhatsApp and email) of not paying, even though I had. I returned to my room to find the door wide open, turns out the cleaner had popped by and left it unlocked. Classic. At this point, nothing surprised me.

🏛️ Oct 6 – Butrint: Where Are We?

Butrint was supposed to be a cultural highlight. Instead, it was €10 for ruins with no signage, no explanations, and no shade. Best part? A wild turtle and a waiter who smiled. A true unicorn in Albania.

Almost got run over again walking back. A kind German couple rescued me. I love Germans.

Dinner? Disaster. Despite showing my allergies in Albanian, the chef sprinkled something sparkly and dangerous all over my steak. Cue allergic reaction. Cue another sleepless night. Ksamil: you were pretty, but we are breaking up.

🇬🇷 Oct 8 – Corfu: My Soul Exhales

Insert hallelujah chorus.

From the moment I stepped off the ferry, Corfu was heaven. Friendly people. Fluent English. Menus with actual allergy information. Waiters who didn’t treat me like I’d just asked for their PIN code.

I had a peaceful meal, explored charming streets, sipped coffee that didn’t taste like despair, and remembered what it was like to enjoy travel. One day of actual vacation.

I floated back to Albania later that day with one clear thought: next time, I’m just driving straight through to Greece,  food packed, playlist loaded, zero expectations.

🏙️ Oct 9 – Final Days in Sarandë

Back in Sarandë, I returned to my trusty restaurant. Yes, they accidentally garlic-bombed my veg, but they remade it, apologised, and were genuinely kind. In Albania, this is Michelin-star behaviour.

I spotted a “gluten-free” sign. Turns out, they meant the sauce. Not the pasta. Not the bread. Just... the sauce. I walked 50 minutes back to my safe food spot. It was worth every step.

🧳 Final Thoughts (aka: Lessons Learned)

• Is Albania beautiful? Yes.

• Is it affordable? Not really.

• Is it welcoming to English speakers with food allergies? …Nope.

• Did I almost get run over multiple times? Absolutely.

• Would I go back? Only if I’m driving through it, windows down, snacks from another country, and heading straight to Greece.

Albania has its moments. The drives are stunning. Tirana was actually the cheapest place to eat. But for a solo traveller with dietary restrictions? It was exhausting, confusing, and occasionally infuriating.

The people aren’t rude, they’re tired. Working 12–14 hour days just to get by. There’s beauty here, for sure, but you have to dig through bureaucracy, broken buses, and a fair bit of attitude to find it.

Corfu wins. Albania… thanks for the memories (and the material).